Sunday, November 28, 2010

 MALLAKHAMB

The earliest recorded references to Mallakhamb is found in the 12th century classic Manasollasa (1135 AD) by Somesvara Chalukya.
PHOTO BY ME
29 states in India participate in mallakhamb competitions at the national level. National Level mallakhamb tournaments were first organized more than 25 years ago. From 2010 the national level tournament will be organized in four separate groups.

Types of mallakhamb


Originally mallakhamb was introduced as a supporting exercise for wrestlers. "Pole mallakhamb" was started by Balambhattdada Deodhar sometime between 1800 and 1810. Later on, his student Damodarguru Moghe realized that only major grips can be developed with a pole and used cane instead of a pole. Subsequently, the unavailability of cane resulted in rope mallakhamb. Almost 25 to 30 types of mallakhamb apparatus were tried and tested over the years.
Competitively there are three main variations of mallakhamb.

Pole or fixed mallakhamb

In this variation, a vertical wooden pole is fixed in the ground and the participant performs various acrobatic feats and poses while hanging on the pole.
The mallakhamb pole used in competitions is a straight pole made of teak or sheesham wood, standing 2.6 metres (8.5 ft) in height with a circumference of 55 centimetres (22 in) at the base. It gradually tapers to a circumference of 35 centimetres (14 in) at the top.
PHOTO BY ME

 

 

PHOTO BY ME

Hanging mallakhamb

Similar to the pole mallakhamb, the hanging mallakhamb is a wooden pole that is shorter in length than the standard Pole Mallakhamb and is hung from chain and hooks, leaving a gap between the ground and the bottom of the mallakhamb.

Rope mallakhamb

In this variation, the participant performs exercises while hanging from a rope suspended from a support.







                                                                                                          SOURCE:-WIKIPEDIA

Monday, June 21, 2010

How To Photograph Nature

How To Photograph Nature 

                                Nature Photography

 The term nature covers a wide variety of subjects. It can be anything from a small flower to a large mammal. Any subject that is totally "natural" can be classed as a suitable subject for a nature image. The image would not even have to be of a singular subject, it could be a group of animals or an entire natural landscape. So this gives us a very wide variety of subjects.
The first rule of thumb any photographer should abide by when taking nature images is to keep it "natural". Exclude any signs of "the hand of man" in your images.
Try to show your subject in its natural habitat if this is possible. If not make sure not to show any signs of human interference when taking a shot.





                                 Flowers and Plants

Flowers of course, are very popular subjects to photograph. They are extremely colourful and are in easy access. Most flowers are large enough to fill the camera frame without any need of close up equipment. Fungi or mushrooms are another type of plant to keep in mind. Mushrooms like the one shown here (right) are very colourful. Other types of mushrooms or fungi can have great texture qualities. The photo above right is a good example of the different ways to explore nature through the lens of a camera.The most important aspect when taking photos of flowers or plants is to get them at their prime. Find a flower that is not showing signs of wilting but is fully developed. Make sure to exclude any signs of flower pots, fences, plant supports etc. If the flower or plant you are photographing is in a garden or greenhouse, isolate it by getting in close or fill the background with related plant life such as leaves etc.

 

                                    ANIMALS  

when presenting animals as a nature image, make sure it is not of the domesticated kind. Photos of pets like dogs and cats are NOT nature images. Other domesticated animals such as cattle, sheep and horses would not be classed as nature subjects either.

It can be a bit difficult to find animals in their habitat for many people. Wild animals are usually shy creatures that are gone long before most of us have a chance to see them never mind photograph them. Patience, planning and perseverance are vital in order to photograph wild animals.
Small subjects like birds, squirrels and reptiles like lizards and snakes are the most popular subjects for natural photography. These are mostly small and fairly fast. Birds are the most commonplace however and can make excellent subjects to photograph without too much difficulty. Again a bit of planning as to how to find these creatures in the right location is vital.
Though not many of us get the chance to see wild animals in their natural habitat, especially of a bigger variety, we do have access to them in zoo's and parks. It is possible to take nature images in these circumstances. In this instance the same rules apply; exclude any sign of human interference. Cages and man-made structures should be excluded in photos that are taken in this situation.
This photo of a Leopard was actually taken in a zoo. Careful composition has eluded any signs of a cage. Although this photo was taken through a fence, putting the lens in as close to the wire as possible and using a wide aperture has prevented showing its existence.


                          NATURE LANDSCAPES
Landscape photos can also be classed as Nature images. Photos of the landscape variety usually do quite well in many Nature competitions. Again the main point here is that the landscape should be totally natural.
Every day however there is less and less areas of the world that do not have some form of human development or other. When first embarking on the quest for a "natural landscape" one may be forgiven thinking they are easy to come by.
Natural landscapes, like other forms of nature photography should exclude any human interference. This means buildings, roads, telephone polls, paths, fences and ideally even farm animals. The best places to find natural landscapes would be National Parks or wildlife preserves. Even in these places however it is quite difficult to exclude man made structures.
This photo was taken in Death Valley National Park in California. Locations such as this provide vast natural landscapes. Because great controls are in place to conserve and preserve areas such as this, human elements are usually at a minimum.


                                 Nature and Man

One area where "the hand of man" would be acceptable in a nature image is when the "story" of the image is about man's preservation or more commonly, destruction of nature. This would have to be depicted quite clearly in the image though for it to be a success.
If one sits down and thinks about it, there is very little in the way of depicting man's preservation of nature in one image. There is unfortunately many ways to capture mans destruction of nature. Most of these images would not be "pretty" pictures but captured correctly can impact on a viewers feelings of disgust and sympathy. Remember that the impact of an image isn't always a pleasant one.

                                                                                                       SOURCE:-SOME WEBSITE

Monday, June 7, 2010

PHOTOGRAPHY TIPS FOR BACKPACKERS

PHOTOGRAPHY TIPS FOR BACKPACKERS

Imagine losing all your photos on your last day of your backpacking trip. You can take simple precautions to avoid this. Make regular backups of your photos in case something happens to your camera or if the memory card gets full. You can burn CDs or DVDs in Internet cafés (make sure you have a good sturdy jewel case which protects the media) or you can store your pictures on your MP3/media player or an external memory stick. If you are on a really fast (and I mean reaaaaaaaaally fast) connection you can even upload the photos somewhere on the Internet such as Flickr or Picasa.


If you make two copies of your photos (in case one is lost) make sure you store them in separate places (e.g. one in your daypack and one in your backpack) so you do not lose both of them if one of your bags gets lost.

If you want to ask someone to take your picture try to find someone with an advanced camera with a tele lense – they are usually skilled at taking photos. Give them instructions how you want the photo to look e.g. crop the picture above our knees, include all of the church towers.


Do not forget to recharge your batteries before heading out into places where recharging may be difficult (such as longer treks). Bringing spare batteries is a must if photography is your main interest.

If you are on a formal cruise or another place where you get your photo taken and the photos are displayed on a wall for purchase (most of the time at outrageous prices) and you are a bad person you can use your digital camera to take a photo of your picture. Now you did not hear that one from us ;) This also works for the postcard section (“Gee, I did not know that the Sydney opera house looked like that inside.”)


THE MEMORY CARD MESS

Keep track of your memory cards if you have several ones. I met an Irish couple in Jordan who managed to lose their card with all their photos from the trip. Memory cards are getting really cheap these days so get a big one (if your camera can handle it) so you do not have to bother with several cards.


RULES OF THIRDS:-

Many people perceive the camera as a rifle: aim in the middle and hopefully you catch what you shoot. Many times pictures with people, animals and other stuff centered in the middle look pretty static and sometimes downright boring.

The trick is not to always put your subject straight in the center of your picture. The rule of thirds states that you should divide your image into different sections. Imagine two horizontal lines and two vertical lines in your viewfinder like a tic-tac-toe grid. Where these lines intersect is where you should place your subject.

Try to put the horizon on one of the lower or the upper lines of the image.


USE FLASH:-

Flash is not only useful when light is low. If the sun is positioned behind the subject the subject can turn into a dark silhouette.


MOVE IN CLOSE:-

Do not be shy. Moving in close on your subject can create a strong sense of presence. This technique may not always be appropriate, e.g. at certain religious procedures. Some people have a strong aversion of having their picture taken for various reasons.


DIAGONALS:-

Diagonals can be used to provide a path for the viewers eye to follow in the photo. It can be used to lead the eye in one direction into the photo and in on direction out of the photo such as in the below example.


Mineralnye Vody MISTAKE:-

On the small airport of Mineralnye Vody in Russia my friend brings up his camera to take a picture of a plane he finds quite amusing – something most people would never set their foot in. Two Russian guards materialize from nowhere and demand him to hand over the film. Which he did after a few minutes of “negotiation”.


Natural
Frames:-

You can sometimes find natural frames which you can use to frame your subject. This can range from doorways, window frames, rocks, trees, etc. and can give a good composition to your photo.

Use Our Imagination:-
Change your level e.g. shooting upwards from a low position or downwards from a high position. Also experiment with changing from horizontal to vertical position in your camera.
aking photos is all about being creative. Try to look for new ways of seeing your subject. What if you climb the stairs and get above it? What if you lie down on the ground? What if you turn the zoom lens while you take the photo? What if you use the timer on your camera and hurl it into the air and see what happens? What if you break all the “rules”in this section?

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HOW TO CREAT A PANORAMA WITH PHOTOSHOP PHOTOMERGE

HOW TO CREAT A PANORAMA WITH PHOTOSHOP PHOTOMERGE

These days you don’t need a special camera to create awesome panoramic photographs. With Photoshop CS using Photomerge makes the process quick and easy. Photomerge was created especially for panoramic photography. The process itself is really quite easy but the results of the merge will be depend on the layout and image source quality. The Photomerge feature permits the selection of images intended for automatic panoramic Photomerge and it also allows for manual arrangements.



Since your final photo depends on the quality of the source images it is necessary to make note of some tips when shooting scenic photographs. These tips include:

  • Use manual exposure when shooting pictures. Merging the pictures later on will be difficult if different exposures per shot are used.
  • Try to keep the camera as steady as possible when shooting. If you can, use a tripod to steady the camera.
  • Keep a long distance between the camera and the subject, especially when working with landscapes. Chances of parallax are greater when objects are too close to the camera.



Instructions using Photoshop CS Photomerge:-

Follow these step-by-step instructions to come up with great panoramic images using Photoshop CS Photomerge:

  • Open several images of a single scenery in Photoshop CS.
  • Go to the File option, the select Automate, and then go to Photomerge. This will open the Photoshop dialog box.
  • Check that the images you want to merge are in the dialog box.
  • Next check the Attempt to Automatically Arrange Source Images box and then select Ok.
  • The program will then automatically select the images one by one, and attempt to merge them into one panoramic photo. If your photos don’t quite match you may get an error because the program cannot merge the images automatically. If this happens don’t panic. It is still possible to arrange the images manually.
  • If an errors does occurs, integrate the image or images that were not merged by pulling that image or the images from the top window into the panorama and arranging to the desired position. Photoshop CS will then integrate the image into the panorama automatically.

25 STEPS CAMERA PURCHASE GUIDE

Step 1.
Purchase a "digicam" or digital point-and-shoot, chiefly because that's what most human beings do first when it occurs to them that they want a camera. This will be preceded by approximately four months of troublesome and increasingly frustrating product research and shopping, during which time you will be learning how to shop but not how photograph. Also during that time, you will be limited to taking pictures with your iPhone. It gradually dawns on you that no one can give you perfectly satisfactory advice about buying a point-and-shoot, for the simple reason that there are roughly 13,796 of them on the market (note: estimate only) with dozens dropping off the cliff into discontinuation and dozens more being introduced all the time, making the search for "the best one" a shifting target even if you could tell them apart. Eventually, lose patience and buy what the local local store counterman recommends, even though in the backmost reaches of your almost-subconscious you suspect that his high level of confidence might be motivated by the fact that he gets a spiff for selling that model because it has a higher profit margin than most of the others, and his boss is pushing him to push it. With tax, it only comes in $30 over your absolute top budget number of $400. Belatedly, you will remember to check B&H Photo, which will be selling the same model, only with an extra card, for $236.

Step 2.
Be perfectly happy with your new purchase...for about 2 1/2 months. After that, slowly discover its infuriating shutter lag, the alarming slowness of its lens at full telephoto, its wretched high-ISO performance, and its general frailty and operational quirkiness. Nevertheless, use said digicam for another 1.8 years as you doggedly and determinedly "get your money's worth out of it," even though you pretty much hate it the whole time. Still, it's always with you, you do a lot of snapping, photography's fun.


Step 3.
After the digicam fails utterly on an expensive vacation—just when you most needed it to work—buy a Canon G10 premium fixed-lens camera. ($420.)

Step 4.
Three weeks later, G11 comes out. Buy that ($470), sell G10 at $150 loss.

Step 5.
Realize that G10 actually has more megapixels than the G11; sell G11 ($120 loss), buy another G10.

Step 6.
Read about small vs. large sensors on the internet, realize you are not really very happy with the premium point-and-shoot category anyway, because it's still mostly a point-and-shoot and you've just kind of had it with point-and-shoots. Sell second G10 for a $175 loss this time and graduate to an $800 entry-level DSLR, purchased with a "kit zoom." Again, that little voice that is almost buried in your subconscious mentions to you fleetingly that the kit zoom is where the company is saving money on the package price, despite the fact that the lens is what determines the essential look of the pictures. The pictures look much better than the pictures from your now-dead p/s, though, and you're sure—almost—that they look better than the pictures from the G10/11, most of the time—so how bad could it be?

Step 7.
Some months later, following the happy congruence of a number of occurrences, namely, 1) an unexpected cash windfall, 2) your wife's uncle's ridicule of your "cheap" camera at a family gathering, 3) your own rather acute embarrassment at having to bring your camera to a rare paying job, during which you were pretty sure you saw your client looking askance at it; 4) dozens more hours spent shopping, and 5) your reading of some 340,000 words on the internet (approximately 1/12th of which were at all useful)—purchase a D90. Sell the entry-level DSLR for 2/5ths of what you paid for it, but keep the lens for the D90. (By the way, you still have your digicam. It doesn't work, can't be fixed economically, and is worth next to nothing on Ebay anyway, but for some strange reason—or, rather, just over 400 strange reasons—you cannot actually bring yourself to physically toss it in the wastebasket. It sits in the closet now. Note: the closet of which I speak is a seldom-mentioned but deeply significant vector very near the beating heart of photographic equipment shopping.

Step 8.
Almost immediately after buying the D90, begin dreaming of a D300s.

Step 9.
Kit lens from entry-level DSLR seems a little forlorn on the D90, and you're wondering if it's "getting the most out of the sensor." Succumb to "metaphysical doubt" and insecurity, and purchase a magnificent do-everything, fast, premium normal zoom lens. $630.

Step 10.
Because the camera is so awkward to carry with your new zoom—which you love, by the way—you inadvertently drop it. Just once. It survives, but the LCD is cracked, and you're not quite 100% certain, but you think some of the electronic menu settings have gone a bit wonky. These imperfections eat at you, just a tiny bit, every time you use the camera.

Step 11.
Purchase camera insurance.

Step 12.
Due a perception that no serious photographer has just one serious lens, purchase a second lens to "cover all the focal lengths" and "complement" your main lens—another magnificent do-everything, fast, premium zoom lens, but telephoto. $520.

Step 13.
Add a macro; your zoom doesn't seem to do close-ups very well. Also $520.

Step 14.
Spend several dozen hours proving to yourself by reading and rereading lens tests until you're bleary-eyed that your macro lens is as close to technically perfect as it is possible for a lens to be. It's super sharp! Right out to the corners! The tiny voice that won't shut up mentions to you that your macro pictures still kind of suck, and that there are approximately a Graham's number of macro pictures on the internet already, almost all of which look...well, more or less the same.

Step 15.
Because you're not quite satisfied, in a way you can't quite put your finger on, with the output of the tele zoom—it just doesn't quite seem to satisfy you like the images from your main zoom does—you're not quite sure what it is—you again dive into an extended bout of internet research and shopping, and resurface from a long immersion only with the purchase a truly magnificent, professional 80–200mm, constant-aperture zoom. $1080. You give the old tele zoom to your wife's uncle's teenage son, who immediately begins doing fantastic work with it after having suddenly come to the stunning realization that you exist.

Step 16.
Troublingly, you find yourself increasingly leaving the camera bag at home, as it now weighs approximately the same, and is roughly the same size, as a concrete block.

Step 17.
Wife buys you D300s for birthday! Yay! Best birthday present ever! It's love, pure love—for the wife, not the camera. Sort of for the camera. $1530. You would sell the D90, but since it's broken.... You do mean to get it fixed. It goes in the closet.

Step 18.
F**king blo*dy tiny voice begins just the faintest, most distant murmur about full frame.

Step 19.
Decide you are not a macro type of photographer. In weak, trifling attempt to lighten bag, macro lens joins old entry-level kit zoom and broken point-and-shoot in closet. Hey, you can always go get it if you need it.

Step 20.
Now that you have your beautiful constant aperture pro tele zoom, your old "prosumer" mid-level normal zoom doesn't seem to quite match any more. So you buy a 17–55mm ƒ/2.8 AF-S lens. Which is truly awesome. You totally love it. $1,385. Old zoom goes on Ebay, fetches $230 after shipping and fees.

Step 21.
You consider yourself completely set where equipment is concerned. Completely set. For all time. You will never need anything more, ever. Yet, for some reason, a nagging sense of ennui sets in where your photography hobby is concerned. You realize, in a moment of exquisite clarity which also elicits just a faint touch of existential panic, that you miss shopping. You find yourself diving into shopping for things you know you're not going to buy. Desultorily, you check prices, read reviews. You find yourself getting uncharacteristically snarky on forums you frequent. Then, wandering about in this strange wilderness where shopping is no longer called for, you read some idiot on the internet who maunders on an on about how fun it is to use just one small prime lens. Completely on impulse, then, you snag a copy of the recently introduced 35mm ƒ/1.8. ($200.) Amazingly, it is kind of nice—it makes the big D300 surprisingly handy, almost nimble. Cue metaphors of bare feet, let-down hair, Julie Andrews in various meadows with her angelic sky-facing pie-hole exuding glorious plainsong. You feel...free. Sure, it's not that exciting as a lens, and it's a little too long if you're being honest with yourself, but there's no big bag to carry around. It's easy to grab on the way out the door. To your surprise, your enjoyment ramps up again, ..


Step 22.
Shut up, tiny voice, shut up, shut up, shut up.

Step 23.
Your activity as a photographer re-ignited, you suddenly get religion: you are going to buy the best, the very best, to put the demons to rest. With a grim set to your mouth and a feeling of unstoppable determination, you purchase that D700. You hadn't even really been considering it; you weren't really that serious when you did all that research and read all those reviews. Elation vies with guilt as you write the check. $2,450. Little voice grumbles that your initial budget for this whole enterprise was $400, but you tell it to shut up: the D700 now seems almost cheap to you compared to the D3s and D3x. Wife is a tad cross and hurt: it's only been a year and four months since the D300 birthday present. Guiltily, you explain carefully that the D300 is a great backup and how you still really need it, really, how it's still the best present ever, etc. Of course, there's a slight drawback to this: having told her you still need the D300s as a backup, you can't immediately turn around and sell it to offset the cost of the D700 like you really ought to. Not right away, anyway. And of course you need a lens for it, so you keep that beautiful normal zoom. As a bright, shining symbol of your financial responsibility, you sell the macro lens on Ebay. It brings $380, of which $35 is shipping costs and Ebay fees. She goes, "It's your hobby. I just want you to have what you want." Then she adds, "Honey," giving you a look as if perhaps an incubus has invaded your body and taken over your soul.

Step 24.
Slight problem with D700: only one of your lenses—the big 80–200mm, which, apart from the macro and the disused kit lens, is the one lens you own that you use the least—now works on your camera. The rest are all APS-C lenses. However, your spending has been out of control, you do have that slightly sick feeling of one who has indulged in something overmuch, your wife now looks somber and concerned whenever the subject of your hobby comes up, you've put black electrician's tape over the "D700" on your new camera in hopes that your wife's uncle won't notice the switch and tease you about it, and you're ever so slightly worried about...well, not your sanity, exactly—it's not that bad—let's just say, your previous reputation for level-headed practicality. So, in a continuation of the "one lens" notion combined with a certain feeling of penitence, you go on Ebay and purchase a very modest used 35mm ƒ/2 AF-Nikkor. $250.

Step 25.
Although you're mostly happy with the 35mm, you do one simple head-and-shoulders portrait with the 80–200mm zoom and find it to be...well, preposterous (sorry!). So you add a simple 85mm ƒ/1.8. $425. You mean to get a full-frame replacement for your beloved normal zoom for APS-C—someday; you're toying with the idea of another macro, but one that works on full-frame; a wide zoom might be nice; you occasionally wonder about this or that other lens...but, really, when it gets right down to it, the lenses at either end of a postulated hypothetical 35–85mm zoom do well enough for you most of the time. And they're fast. And portable. And cheap. Besides, your files, while not perfect or automatically imbued with any special magic, are now about as good as it's reasonably possible for files to be, ...

ORIGINAL POST BY- R@X

Tuesday, May 25, 2010

Motion Photography


Here is the topic which u was waiting for.
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It is not necessary that explanations of tuff things are also tuff, if u understand the base of something first then became very easy to understand the whole concept & u will the be then capable of modifying ur camera according to ur needs.
Motion photography is noting but just a technique of capturing still image which is not having any stillness in it, except the main object , Its done to make the viewers feel that the speed of thing when they were actually moving,Like racing cars, running horse , athletes in race .
See example:

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Lets Start
Imagine that ur standing in ur balcony and suddenly u see are beautiful car coming from right side and going to left, what u do then? ,
U move ur head along with the flow of car ,from right to left, having aim in ur mind to keep the car on the same angle of eye ball from begging to the end of the scene.
Ur just want to see car and do not give a fuck to any thing else happening on road and as a result the picture which is send to ur brain,will just have the car in focos and every thing else is blurred , hootch pooch , with line moving hear and there .
Same is the case of motion photography,
The only difference is that in this here Ur Eye = Lens, Ur Head = Camera,
U just have to move ur camera with the motion of car ,having motive in mind to keep the car at the same angle of the lens from beginning to end.
As result will be Car in focus and rest of thing on road is flowing like waves in picture.
That what is called Motion photography.
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But along with this concept u also require to know some technical concept also:
The length of the period from begging to the end (i.e The point time when u see the last glance of the car - The point where u viewed car at first time) ,just result something like 1/10 or 1/20 or 1/30 part of a second.
Means ur camera has to work for 1/10 part of second,
Its Clear than intelligent auto is not able to do this for u bcz auto is going to give u 1/400 of sec which will just give u a very very still image, as some fool has parked his car in between the road, So u have to set ur cam in such way that its keep capturing photo of 1/10
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U have to set ur Cam on Manual (M) mode
Go ahead hold ur cam in hand , set it on M
When it in M mode U will see some number at bottom of Lcd ,like f3.2 100 7m or something like that
That is the key,
7m means the distance of object from camera.U can set it easily in M mode.
The number 100 means 1/100 part of sec called Shutter Speed (it various from 1/2000 part of second to full 30 seconds )and f3.2 means the ratina in side the lens, just like ur eye, which decide how much light is allowed to enter in cam called Aperture value.
Lower the f , larger the amount of light entering or u can say f3.2 allows more light the f8.
In Auto, f number is setted accordingly to the shutters speed , Slower the Shutter , Higher the f , Faster the shutter , Lower the f. Eg 1/200 with f5 or 1/800 with f3.2 or 1/2000 with f2 or something like that (Rule of thumb Shutter speed decrease means more light is required, hence smaller f number)

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In auto mode , Shutter speed is always like 1/400 , 1/700 etc and never reached even near the speed which we need in Motion Photography
Slow Shutter Speed is causes lots and lots light entered into ur cam but in order not to turn ur pic extremely bright , we have to set in to higher f number , Eg 1/10 with f8 or 1/20 with f7
So we want to reduce the shutter speed and increase the f number
Click the middle of Navigation or directional button , the color of these number will changes, and use the upper and lower and left, right button to set speed.
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U are now ready , Just go in Balcony, keep ur cam ready , Click the shutter when u see a Hot car , move ur camera according to speed and flow of car , and see the shocking results , which ur friend are not able to make.
U mightn't get the required result in beginning bcz ur master in handling ur head and eye from childhood but not camera, more and more practice will improve the quality of focus on the main object.
Also note that ,speed of all the objects are not same
U have to adjust speed of shutter according to speed of object, and f number according to shutter speed now just try and make ur self proud, don't delete the very first image, compare it with images when u get master in this, this will give u lots of satisfaction.
Thanks for ur time.
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originally narrated by - Mac Serial

Wednesday, May 5, 2010

Learn Photography - Lesson 1(Rule of Thirds)

Hello Everybody...
I am starting a new series for Amateur Photographers...
I saw same thread in other commuity...now i want to start it here,
That will slowly introduce you to basic concepts of photography...

It doen't matter what camera you have....its all about compositions...
The most important thing is to try it out and post your results here.
DO ENCOURAGE members, and PROs, please post examples of your work for the benefit of the amateurs..

One of the most commonly talked-about rules in photography is the "Rule of thirds".
Imagine the division of a frame (the photo) into three vertical thirds and three horizontal thirds,

Like this:(CLICK ON IMAGE FOR FULL VIEW)


while capturing Landscape placing horizon at one of that four lines makes much more interesting composition,
Exp:(CLICK ON IMAGE FOR FULL VIEW)

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(CLICK ON IMAGE FOR FULL VIEW)
The rule of thirds is derived from another rule called the "Golden Mean",

Placing the object on any point of those four golden points creates a much more interesting composition than placing it in the center of the frame.
Exp:(CLICK ON IMAGE FOR FULL VIEW)



ORIGNAL TUTORIAL BY CHIRAG CHITVAN